Cellar Talk: Fazenda
Taking a closer look at the wine offerings of the UK’s most unique Brazilian rodizio
Known for tapping into the true essence of the Brazilian gaúcho experience, Fazenda has made quite the name for itself as a forerunner in the premium rodizio experience. With restaurants in Leeds, Liverpool, Manchester and Edinburgh, all specialising in fresh, well-reared and perfectly-seared meats, you’d be forgiven for expecting the wine selection to take a back seat to the fine meats and gourmet sides on offer.
Sitting down with wine expert and menu curator, Chris Milner, at Fazenda’s Manchester site, it’s clear that that’s not the case. ‘Most restaurants have to refrain from more daring wine selections, as experimentation loses out to safer pairing options,’ he tells me. ‘Here,’ he adds, ‘we have a great range of wines to enjoy with your meal, but there’s also some real scope for exploration if you fancy it.’
Judging by the impressive sight of their in-house wine cellar, it’s clear that Chris is being modest. Boasting an extensive selection of French, Brazilian, Argentine, and even Uruguayan wines stacked ceiling-high, the cellar is more of a manifesto than a crypt. It’s a message that reads loud and clear: Fazenda aren’t interested in sticking to the safe and recognisable, they’re far more interested in celebrating the rich and diverse produce of South American viticulture and beyond.
And as further proof of the restaurant’s desire to share this celebration with its guests, Fazenda have invested in cutting-edge, Coravin Wine Access technology to make otherwise exclusive wines more accessible than ever. Developed by nuclear engineer Greg Lambrecht, the Coravin device allows you to pour a glass of wine from any bottle without actually opening it. The idea is to be able to access a wine from a cork-sealed bottle without triggering the natural ageing processes that occur once a bottle is open. Fazenda is part of a small, exclusive group of restaurateurs that offers this technology. ‘Thanks to the Coravin System,’ says Chris, ‘guests are welcome to try more exclusive, premium wines without having to take a risk on buying the whole bottle.’
It’s a wise move: Guests can enjoy the apple and pear freshness and summersweet bouquet of a 2014 Domaine Alain Chavy Puligny-Montrachet without the cost leaving a bad taste in their mouth. Likewise, guests are free to sniff out the hints of balsamic and dried fig to be found in a glass of a 2011 Numanthia Toro, without paying through the nose for the whole bottle (which would usually set
a guest back by just over £300).
Naturally, the option to buy the whole bottle is always there. But it’s refreshing to see a restaurant go to such lengths to share their interest in, and passion for, fine wine. As impressive as the wines look in their purpose-built cellars, Fazenda’s investment in the Coravin system is a testament to their desire to serve up beauty by the glass. WH
Words by Will Halbert
Image Credits by Oscar Norm
