High Spirits Spotlight Mezcal
Delving deep into the latest and greatest from The Whisky Exchange
Words by Liz LOCK & MW Dawn DAVIES
Mezcal is really finding its stride this year. Although most mezcals derive from the Oaxaca province of Mexico, there are nine states which can produce mezcal, and it can be made from around 50 different species of agave grown in those states (unlike Tequila, which is made specifically from blue agave). Mezcal is often known as the smokier brother of Tequila thanks to the cooking of the piña (heart of the agave plant), but terroir plays a big part in the production of mezcal and flavours are dictated by many factors such as weather conditions, the species of agave used, cooking method and time, and the distillation process. On the whole, where tequila offers and spice characters, most mezcals present an element of smoke and fruit. Mezcal is superb when mixed with tonic and makes a fantastic ‘negroni’ in the place of gin.
Ilegal Joven
70cl | 40% | £49.75
John Rexer lacked a good mezcal to stock in his bar, Café No Sé and so in 2004 he began smuggling artisanal mezcal from Oaxaca to Guatemala. Soon it became local knowledge that this smooth and smoky spirit was available in the backroom but it wasn’t until late 2009 that Ilegal Mezcal became legal and available to buy. Hand corked, labeled and numbered, Ilegal Joven is un-aged with a full-bodied flavour. It hosts eucalyptus and mineral aromas complemented with hints of green apple and citrus. A delicious light smoke flavour with lingering heat makes this perfect on its own or to pair with tonic and ice.
Marca Negra Espadín Mezcal
70cl | 51.5% | £59.95
Distilled from estate-grown espadín, the most commonly used agave for mezcal averaging 7 to 10 years of age and double-distilled in pot stills. Marca Negra comes on a little stronger than most other Espadín Mezcal’s, yet the alcohol never overpowers the taste. This particular expression has spicy peppery notes that prove dry and fruity on the palate with a smoky body. We recommend you try this one neat.
Bozal Cuixe Mezcal
75cl | 47% | £61.45
The name, Bozal is translated to ‘wild’ or ‘untamed’ in Spanish and is reference to the wild species of agave, grown in the precarious hillsides of Oaxaca and Guerrero. The range is made in small batches using traditional techniques to produce a pure style of mezcal. Cuixe is one of the most physically distinct species of agave with an unusual structure which can be difficult to harvest. This a complex mezcal with distinctive flavours of rich tropical fruit, followed by a smoky finish.
A Word from the Experts
A quick-fire Q&A with Monica Berg, drinks curator at Himkok, Oslo and co-creator of P(our) Symposium
3 words that best describe mezcal?
Flavourful, agricultural & pure
How do you prefer to drink mezcal?
Always neat! Although a Mezcal Negroni is one of my go to cocktails.
Can you think of a classic cocktail that gets better with a little mezcal?
I think many classic cocktails lend themselves to a little mezcal – anything from a Margarita to a Bloody Mary.
Somebody walks into your bar and wants to see what mezcal is all about, how do you ease them into it?
I often make the comparison to scotch; tequila would be your blend-ed whisky whilst mezcal would best be compared to single malt. It’s absolutely a product best described as an expression of the culture and ecology behind it.
Where’s the best place in town to get your mezcal fix?
These days, you can find a good selection of mezcal in many bars and restaurants. In my parts, I quite like Santo Remedio which is close to where I live but also Scarfes Bar and FARE in London.
