One Thing Done Well: Crockett & Jones
Our series of brands doing one item especially well continues this month with the Crockett & Jones Cavendish Loafer
If you were only allowed four pairs of shoes for the rest of your life, a tassel loafer should be one of them. Originally invented by an American shoe company at the request of actor Paul Lukas, the stylish and versatile slip-on soon became all the rage among the post-WWII Ivy League ‘preppies’ with a popularity that over the years has spread like wildfire.
Since Lukas’s request, the tassel loafer has become synonymous with everyone; from DC lawyers and lobbyists to young French right-wingers sartorially showcasing their distaste for socialist government. As John Vinocur, the executive editor of The International Herald Tribune pointed out in a 90s New York Times article, even the latter’s French leftist opponents cottoned on to the trend. “It helped them get tables in the better restaurants.”
Our pick of the tassel loafers of this world? Crockett & Jones’s Cavendish, the nation’s favourite… along with most of the house’s number one wholesale market – Japan. Made on the 325 Last with an E fitting, the Cavendish has a medium round toe with increased depth at the front making it a less boxy option compared with other loafers. Part of their men’s main collection, the Cavendish comes in a variety of options including high quality calf Grainor suede, as well as Burgundy Cordovan, a luxurious shell which undergoes a special vegetable tanning process which can take up to a year.
It goes without saying that the Cavendish uses the finest materials and is Goodyear-welted at the family-owned company’s factory in Northampton. The high quality leather Crockett & Jones uses is all European Calf. During wear (constant flexing) this younger Calf skin is durable, comfortable and ages beautifully with the right care. The welting process means that it can also be sent back for refurbishment when the soles eventually wear out. A post-refurbishment Cavendish thus feels like a brand new one, but holsters the same glove-like upper that has already been broken in.
Styling-wise, the Cavendish’s versatility is it what makes it such an essential. Darker colours and heavier leathers – dark brown burnished calf for instance – lend themselves to Autumn and Winter when the weather is harsher. Smart enough for a perfectly curated suit, but also more casual moments. Spring summer on the other hand is prime Cavendish weather, with suede and lighter leathers working effortless with linen and chino trousers in lighter shades. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but a stone or dare we say it white trouser and dark brown Cavendish is a big look.
In summer we recommend an invisible sock, but if you’re old school, feel free to go sockless. In the winter, a subtle sock in line with trouser colour is recommended, but of course the brave will opt for louder stripes, colours and patterns. Few will succeed, but sometimes it comes off. Most crucial of all is trouser length and taper. Allow for a gap, don’t let them bunch up. When quizzed on their own favourites when it comes to one thing done well, Crockett & Jones, Head of Marketing & Advertising James Fox (who with Jonathan Jones, develops new shoe styles) recommends: Alice Made This.
“My Father was a tool maker by trade and I think he instilled OCD into the way I appreciate men’s products.” James says.
“Alice Made This is a relatively small brand. They are producers of men’s and women’s jewellery with a minimalist look and feel to their pieces. Any man who wears cufflinks needs a pair of AMT. Very stylish, milled from a single block of metal (mine are copper) and incredibly easy to put in… I love that they are relatively unknown with no external financial backing, but are doing such a good job in a very competitive sector.” EJ
Words by Davey Brett
Image Credits courtesy of Crockett & Jones
