Porteño Prodigies
Fazenda’s resident wine expert and menu curator, Chris Milner, takes us on a tour of his favourite South American wines
words by Will HALBERT
It’s no secret that Fazenda has made quite a name for itself as a forerunner in the premium rodizio experience. Excelling in fresh, well-reared and perfectly-seared meats, you’d be forgiven for expecting the award-winning restaurant’s wine selection to take a back seat to the menu’s more carnivore-forward offerings. Sitting down with wine expert and menu curator, Chris Milner, however, it’s clear that Fazenda aren’t interested in sticking to the safe and recognisable. They’re far more interested in taking us on a journey of the rich and diverse produce of South American viticulture and beyond. And that journey starts here, with Chris’ top three wine picks for those looking to immerse themselves in the finest wines that the Southern Cone has to offer. EJ
Perverso/La Maldita Solera
Chile gets a bit of a bad rep in the world of wine. The overproduction of Merlot has seen many winemakers adopt a quantity-over-quality ethos that has seen the humble grape fall into disrepute. Thank God, then, for the likes of Garage Wine Co., who are not only bringing a little prestige back to Chilean wines, but seem to be having a lot of fun doing it, too. Indeed, Perverso takes a more irreverent approach to the fine art of winemaking. Using the Solera system (usually reserved for the making of Brandy), Garage Wine Co. store and rotate their various barrels that do not stylistically fit into their main repertoire of wines, with a view to mixing them for something truly unique. The result is a refined, complex nose that boasts a blend of ripe fruit and pungent spices with a touch of leather, raw meat and licorice. An odd experience, to be sure, but an unforgettable one nonetheless. ‘This is not how wine should be made,’ concedes Chris, ‘But this is a truly exceptional wine, in the truest sense of the word. It flies in the face of logic and reason, to truly defy expectations.’
Vallisto Criolla 2018
If ever there was a case to be made for Argentina stepping out of its Mendoza-based, Malbec-inflected comfort zones, this little Criolla would be it. In a surprising turn from a region with such a well-recorded preference for bolder, punchier expressions, this is an altogether lighter, more summer-friendly style. Hailing from the Salta region of Argentina, the Vallista Criolla reveals a slight European charm, with notes of raspberries, red-currants and even a hint of apple prevalent throughout. At 14%, it remains aromatic and fresh, with a total absence of oak leading to an even greater approachability. This is a summer wine, through and through. One might even be tempted to chill things down a few degrees (á la beaujolais) before drinking in the warmer months ahead. In Chris’ own words, ‘this is a beautiful rarity from a relatively unknown grape in the UK, well worth a try if you’re looking for a wine that will delight and surprise in equal measure.’
Catena Appellation Paraje Altamira Malbec 2016
Family vintners for over 100 years, the Catenas are recognized by those in the know for their pioneering role in high-altitude viticulture and in leading Argentina’s Malbec revolution. Their 2016 Paraje Altamira Malbec makes it easy to see why they’re held in such high regard. Sourced from the vineyards of Altamira in the Uco Valley, this is everything you’d expect from a great Malbec and then some. It’s punchy, spicy and replete with dark fruit and subtle, chocolate notes. A good 12 months spent in oak further adds to the heft of the wine. Despite its intense flavours and lofty credentials, however, the wine remains balanced and quaffable, perfect for pairing with any number of Fazenda’s first-rate meats. Which is probably why Fazenda is the only place in the UK that you can get your Paraje Altamira fix. According to Chris, ‘This Fazenda exclusive is a true celebration of Argentinian terroir, and an experience quite beyond your typical Mendoza variants.’
