Reaching a Consensus: Pitti Uomo 95
We reach out to those in the know to get their personal insight
on the hits and misses of this year’s Pitti trade show
Interviews by Will HALBERT
David KEYTE
Founder of Universal Works, UK
What does Pitti mean to you? How would you define its significance?It’s important for us to have a presence at Pitti as we have a growing audience in Italy. Pitti has a formidable reputation as the first major selling show of the season, which is further accentuated by the palace in which it all takes place. As such, it attracts a huge international audience, but it always manages to feel local.
How would you say Pitti has evolved over the years? Did you notice any major changes this year?
To be honest I’m not one to ask as I spend my time at Pitti pretty glued to the Universal Works stand! The new ‘I Go Out’ area – a blending of fashion and outdoors elements hosted in the Sala della Ronda – is one of my favourite new additions to Pitti. It’s a pretty good indication of how Pitti continues to evolve. It’s been around for a long time after all, and will continue to be around for some time for sure.
How, in your opinion, does Pitti differ from other fashion-led events in the likes of London, Paris and New York?
Pitti is unique in the sense that everything is in one place as opposed to scattered about the city, as the case tends to be in Paris, London and New York. That certainly has its advantages for sellers. But Paris is the big one for me, that feels like it’s geared towards an international audience, while the others tend to feel a little more focussed on national markets.
What are your thoughts on the peacocks of Pitti?
Again, I don’t really see much of it as I’m in work-mode. I’m primarily there to show our latest collections to buyers, so I try to ignore the peacock parade if I’m honest. But honestly, if people want to get dressed up and have their photo taken that’s their choice, as long as they’re having fun. As long as people realise that the peacocking doesn’t define Pitti. It’s just not what Pitti’s about.
Were there any standout brands or clothiers that caught your eye this year?
I mean, Universal Works was pretty good! [laughs]
Were there any emerging trends that you were particularly fond of? Any you were less fond of?
Emerging trends aren’t really my thing, if I’m honest. In my opinion, trends are something to be avoided in favour of a lasting style. But it’s not really my place to criticise others, either.
And finally, what was your own approach to dressing for Pitti
this year?
The same approach I opt for everyday: I wake up and consider what to wear. I ensure that my outfit is comfortable, considered and weather-appropriate (Florence is cold this time of year!). I hope it’s stylish, and then forget about it entirely and just go about enjoying my day.
Kevin STONE
Marketing Director of Ben Sherman, UK
What does Pitti mean to you? How would you define its significance in the industry?
I think Pitti Uomo is like a twice a year fashion blood transfusion, it reaffirms why we work in this industry. It’s a chance to catch up with many friends and acquaintances, built over many years in the industry to check what’s happening in terms of trend and colour, be inspired and fall in love with the business yet again.
How would you say Pitti has evolved over the years? Did you notice any major changes this year?
I believe it evolves every year. It’s a very subtle evolution, as the show and venue always feels very familiar yet at the same time, new brands arrive, old brands re-invent themselves, and new artisans bring us new and exciting concepts.
How, in your opinion, does Pitti differ from other fashion-led events in the likes of London, Paris and New York?
I’d say that other shows on the calendar are more business orientated, Pitti could be seen as more of a gathering, a kick off for the season.
Is it fair to say that Pitti is primarily a sartorial affair? Or do you think other elements of men’s fashion are equally well-represented?When you scratch below the surface, Pitti’s got all of the elements of a normal show. It’s just that the sartorial splendour shines through more, especially given the artisan nature of the way Italians dress. After all, for them, it’s a local show: Out of 30,000 visitors, over 50% will be Italian, with only 6 or 7% hailing from the UK.
What are your thoughts on the peacocks of Pitti?
I find them amusing, I remember watching a flock of photographers obsessed with taking their pictures whilst right in front of them walked Sir Paul Smith and not a camera shutter twitched in his direction.
Were there any standout brands or clothiers that caught your eye this year?
Too many to mention, to be honest! I loved the vibe in the ‘I Go Out’ section in Sala Della Ronda, Griffin looked strong in there, the WP area with their family of curated brands was on point as always.
Were there any Ben Sherman pieces that you were particularly excited to showcase this year?
The new workings of the Archive Product: a nod to the brand’s rich history with a modern sensibility.
David COGGINS
Columnist and author of Men and Style and Men and Manners, USA
First and foremost, tell us a little about yourself and what took you
to Pitti?
I’m a writer. I’ve published a book called “Men and Style” and contribute to a number of magazines. I love Italian tailoring and I love Florence, so I go to Pitti partly just to experience being in a great city while a lot of my friends are there. I make a point to see what certain labels I admire are up to.
What does Pitti mean to you? How would you define its significance?To me it’s a chance to celebrate Italian tailoring and a chance to see other great younger brands. It’s a place to see the best of what’s to come—though plenty of it is definitely not the best.
How would you say Pitti has evolved over the years? Did you notice any major changes this year?
Well it’s certainly more self-regarding than it used to be. I’ve been coming for the last five years so it already had begun to enter the social media fog by the time I began coming. But as you can imagine it’s not getting better.
How, in your opinion, does Pitti differ from other fashion-led events in the likes of London, Paris and New York?
The fact that Pitti is in Florence, a very old city, preserves a lot of its charm. And the fact that there’s so much focus on tailoring also gives it some old-world appeal. It’s not nearly as much about fashion as other events.
Is it fair to say that Pitti is primarily a sartorial affair? Or do you think other elements of men’s fashion are equally well-represented?
I think the strength is definitely sartorial. You can find whatever you’re looking for there. But tailored clothing is the strength of Pitti.
‘I’m never going to be as excited when tailoring companies go heavier into sportswear.’
What are your thoughts on the peacocks of Pitti?
Well Pitti takes some of the most self-involved men in the world and puts them around men who are even more self-involved. So there’s a lot of preening. I think some of it is natural. And a lot of it is ridiculous costume wearing hoping for attention. Nobody needs to posture that much.
Were there any standout brands or clothiers that caught your eye this year?
I’m always excited to see what Drake’s is up to. They’re friends of mine and they always have one of the most exciting booths. East Harbor Surplus had a lot of great military-inspired outerwear. I love Baudoin & Lange’s elegant loafers. Fedeli has the most incredible light-weight knitted shirts in amazing colors. Ring Jacket continues to make really smart tailored clothing.
Were there any emerging trends that you were particularly fond of?There were a lot of wonderful overcoats, which is great for everybody. I continued to see a lot of elegant different shades of browns, caramel and tan. There’s also a lot of texture—lovely corduroy and tweed. Fall and winter clothes are always my favorite.
Any you were less fond of?
I’m never going to be as excited when tailoring companies go heavier into sportswear. It’s really hard to do both well and very few places can manage that.
And finally, what was your own approach to dressing for Pitti 95?
Ha! Well that’s a revealing question. I wear what I would wear in any case. A tweed sport coat, some moleskin trousers, a knit tie. An old scarf and an even older overcoat. Definitely dressed up, but looking like myself. I think that’s the best policy in general and it works at Pitti too.
Jeremy KIRKLAND
Creator and Host of Blamo! Podcast, USA
What does Pitti mean to you personally? How would you define its significance in the industry?
Pitti means the world to me: It’s not only the place I truly fell in love with the entire menswear industry, but it’s also the first place I felt accepted by others. So much of Pitti is about catching up with other folks and meeting new ones. It’s far more than a trade show.
How would you say Pitti has evolved over the years? Did you notice any major changes this year?
Now, people literally vacation to Pitti Uomo. I’m not kidding. I met some fellas that all took time off work to come out. They were dressed in their best and were having the time of their life. Pretty wild, right? Power to them.
How, in your opinion, does Pitti differ from other fashion-related events in the likes of London, Paris and New York?
London, Paris and NYC are all pretty much invite only. You can’t really just buy a ticket and walk on in the way you can at Pitti Uomo. Rick Owens doesn’t sell tickets to his fashion show, but maybe that wouldn’t be such a bad idea?
Is it fair to say that Pitti is primarily a sartorial affair? Or do you think other elements of men’s fashion are equally well-represented?
I would say the majority of the folks I see are all folks in their suits. But there are always folks there who are wearing things I would never imagine. Which is exactly why they’re at Pitti!
‘Power to them. If they want to do it, it’s fine. At the end of the day, fashion is really about being comfortable in your own skin. Who am I to judge?’
What are your thoughts on the peacocks of Pitti?
Power to them. If they want to do it, it’s fine. At the end of the day, fashion is really about being comfortable in your own skin. Who am I to judge?
Were there any standout brands, clothiers or individuals that caught your eye this year?
You can’t go to Pitti and not talk about Brunello Cucinelli. They’re one of the greatest brands on earth. Period. I was also really impressed with Drake’s this year. I would also check out what the Japanese brand Coherence was doing and this killer Swedish underwear brand CDLP (yes underwear, it’s that good).
From what you saw, were there any emerging styles/trends that you were particularly fond of?
If anything, I would say folks are more comfortable with a wider silhouette. It’s nice to see folks moving away from skintight.
Any you were less fond of?
Top hats with long capes: It got gnarly out there.
And finally, what was your own approach to dressing for Pitti 95?
Layers. Wear layers. It’s freezing in the morning and by the afternoon you’re like, “Why am I wearing 10lbs of wool!?” Bring a down vest and shed as needed.
Jose MIGUEL DE ABREU
Co-founder of La Paz clothing, Portugal
What does Pitti mean to you? How would you define its significance? Pitti is always the first show of the season, so it’s also where we get the first feedback from the work we have been developing over the last 6 months, so it’s always a good thermometer.
How would you say Pitti has evolved over the years? Did you notice any major changes this year?
Pitti has been a very transversal and complete trade show for many years now. I would say that this year in particular there were slightly fewer people but of a more professional mindset. Basically, there were more buyers and people working than there were people just looking to be seen.
How, in your opinion, does Pitti differ from other fashion-led events in the likes of London, Paris and New York?
It’s just that it’s a much bigger show offering a wider range of segments.
Is it fair to say that Pitti is primarily a sartorial affair? Or do you think other elements of men’s fashion are equally well-represented?No, as I’ve said nowadays it’s a very transversal trade show, you can find a bit of everything there, from the most commercial street wear to the more sartorial brands, with a bit of everything in between.
What are your thoughts on the peacocks of Pitti?
I mean, our approach towards clothing tends to go exactly the opposite way, meaning that we strive to produce comfortable and practical clothes for everyday living, in a very laid back style. But as everything in life, we respect everyone who contributes to the amazing Pitti fauna.
Were there any standout brands or clothiers that caught your eye this year?
Not really, to be honest with you. I really respect brands and projects that, above all, are consistent and can manage to keep doing what they do over the years in an independent way. Of late, I’ve found the market to be a little homogenized within each different market segment. The industry puts too much emphasis on marketing, which, in my opinion, doesn’t really add value to the final product.
Were there any emerging trends that you were particularly fond of? Yeah, out of sheer nostalgia I really liked the 90s style and what it represented to my generation.
Any you were less fond of?
Anything that doesn’t make you comfortable in your own skin. You can spot that a mile off. It can be the wrong shoes, a tight jacket, a pair of too-high-high-heels that will make someone walk in a funny way. Anything that just doesn’t fit, regardless of brand or price tag, will not look good. Someone with proper class, no matter the age, the looks, or the money they may have, can look great wearing a second hand €20 jumper, but it doesn’t work the other way around. The most stylish people I know don’t spend much money on clothes.
‘The industry puts too much emphasis on marketing, which, in my opinion, doesn’t really add value to the final product.’
And finally, what was your own approach to dressing for Pitti 95?
I don’t dress for Pitti, I’ll leave that to the peacocks. I dress according to my particular style and I tend to adapt it to the weather conditions I’m looking to face. One thing I don’t get is how people can just not wear socks and freeze their asses off just for the sake of looking good. It makes me laugh.
Robert SPANGLE
Former marine, Savile Row tailor, and man behind the lens of A Thousand Yard Style, UK
First and foremost, tell us a little about yourself and the story of Thousand Yard Style. What took you to Pitti?
I first heard about Pitti Uomo when I was studying fashion in 2012. I was convinced it was just an Italian village with incredibly-dressed citizenry. Living in London in 2013, I learned it was an industry trade-show. It was the first place I traveled to photograph.
What does Pitti mean to you? How would you define its significance?Industry aside, Pitti Uomo is a great example of tribe and self-elected identity in the 21st century. You have thousands of people from around the world transforming Florence into a menswear Mecca twice a year and bonding over passion-based, self-elected identity that trumps nationality, race and ethnicity. It’s a pretty wonderful turn for the better if you ask me.
How would you say Pitti has evolved over the years? Did you notice any major changes this year?
Social media changed the event entirely. It’s less intimate than it once was, there is a huge social element now but it hasn’t come at any cost to the trade side of the show. This past season, things were a little more subdued, there was a feeling of settling changes.
How, in your opinion, does Pitti differ from other fashion-led events in the likes of London, Paris and New York?
It’s a trade show with a very specific sartorial focus, and the energy and importance of a major fashion week. It also holds a real tribal quality in terms of the sense of belonging and community people attending feel, which is different from any other fashion event I have covered.
Is it fair to say that Pitti is primarily a sartorial affair? Or do you think other elements of men’s fashion are equally well-represented?It’s sartorial, but sartorial tastes and palettes change just like anything else.
What are your thoughts on the peacocks of Pitti?
Other people are hell. I don’t think anyone should worry about how anyone is dressed but themselves. But this goes hand in hand with the tribal aspect of Pitti: Tribes are as clearly defined by their members as by those they exclude. You could see the same dilemma in skateboarding with posers or music with scenesters.
Were there any standout brands or clothiers that caught your eye this year?
I never have as much time as I’d like to see the actual booths, however watching Drake’s evolve each season is a joy. Sciamat’s humorous dialogue and severe silhouettes were noteworthy. Arc’tyrex and Snow Peak also caught my eye.
Were there any emerging trends that you were particularly fond of?Many of my favorite style guys were more restrained and severe than usual, grey and blacks, minimal. It was refreshing. I liked seeing Japanese design sensibilities manifest in soft, belted overcoats. Overall, people are loosening up their suits with volume and drape, which I adore.
Any you were less fond of?
I believe there were some guys wearing cover-up or foundation. The more I think about that, the more it disturbs me.
And finally, what was your own approach to dressing for Pitti 95?Operator chic.
James SLEATER
Co-founder of Savile Row tailors, Cad and The Dandy, UK
First and foremost, tell us a little about yourself and the story of Cad & The Dandy.
We were established back in 2008 and, over the course of those ten years, we have become the largest tailors on Savile Row. We also have shops in New York and Stockholm
What does Pitti mean to you? How would you define its significance?It’s quite the mixed bag. But quite simply, Pitti provides the platform for the world’s menswear leaders to get together, check out emerging trends, meet suppliers and converse with writers. In that way it’s the perfect mix of business and pleasure.
How would you say Pitti has evolved over the years? Did you notice any major changes this year?
I’d say that this winter saw far fewer peacocks. Peacocks at Pitti are more dressed for attention. Few of them have genuine style but rely on bright, gaudy colours to get noticed. Sure, they make interesting subjects for the camera but they’re not exactly the beacons of how to dress that they think they are.
How, in your opinion, does Pitti differ from other fashion led events in the likes of London, Paris and New York?
The other shows in London, Paris, and New York are based around brands showing at largely separate locations whereas Pitti is less runway based and more trade show. As it’s all held in the grounds of the Pitti Palace, Fortezza da Basso, it’s a much closer, more intimate affair.
What are your thoughts on the peacocks of Pitti?
I think it’s a shame that the show has become a hotbed of people wanting their photo taken whilst walking as slowly as possible on fictional phone calls. These Peacocks are not to be imitated and thankfully the show has been trying to get the numbers to dwindle by removing the ‘wall of Pitti’ where people would sit, purely hoping to be snapped by a passing photographer. There are a couple of great Youtube videos about the Pitti peacock that for those that have never encountered them should watch as compulsory viewing.
Were there any standout brands or clothiers that caught your eye this year?
I think it’s going to be an exciting year for the Italian mill, Lanificio Cerruti, they have a fantastic 200 year history, but with a new CEO, Paolo Torello-Viera, I think the company is one to keep an eye on. Their cloths have always been fantastic and I think combining that with a visionary mindset the company is on a great course.
Were there any emerging trends that you were particularly fond of?
I like the resurgence of tailoring with a more sporting edge. I am not sure I am yet convinced about trainers with suits, but I am a huge fan of more technical cloths that provide stretch and comfort with assets like water repellence.
Any you were less fond of?
Anyone that dresses with bright colours for the quick win of getting noticed. I think Paul Smith exploited that well in the 90s, but I think style is more sophisticated now with a consumer desire for more subtle individualism rather than shout out loud clothing.
And finally, what was your own approach to dressing for Pitti 95?
Too many people try too hard at Pitti and don’t look comfortable in their own clothes. I always believe in dressing everyday in a way that is comfortable and yet stylish. I like to wear my clothes and not for my clothes to wear me. I don’t wear trainers, as I find loafers and boots just as comfortable. I am fortunate that I make most of the clothes I wear, so I can invest the time in making sure that I know how each item will turn out. You have to learn what works for you by making mistakes and, luckily, I made mine 20 years ago rather than today.
Takashi OKABE
Editor of Men’s File Tokyo and European Correspondent for Clutch Magazine Japan, UK
First and foremost, tell us a little about Clutch.
Clutch Magazine has been running over the last 6 years, mainly focusing on heritage, vintage, lifestyle fashion and we are known for working together with Men’s File Magazine.
Clutch has recently opened a shop called Clutch Café (yes, we have a bit of Café space too) in the middle of Fitzrovia, London. We deal with over 50 brands, mainly from Japan, carefully curating products that will last you a lifetime.
What does Pitti mean to you? How would you define its significance?There is no event like Pitti anywhere in the world. The first time I visited Pitti was about 12 years ago. Although the number of visitors might be in decline, there is always great energy amongst the people there. We have a booth ourselves, and have been exhibiting over the last 3 years or so. We use it to sell our magazine, chat to our customers, and try to find exciting new brands. I occasionally take photos for the magazine too.
How, in your opinion, does Pitti differ from other fashion led events in the likes of London, Paris and New York?
All those major cities have big corporate-style brand catwalks, very fashionista-type affairs. Florence, on the other hand, offers a slightly more relaxed and culturally-engaging event for me.
Is it fair to say that Pitti is primarily a sartorial affair? Or do you think other elements of men’s fashion are well-represented?
It will always be the sartorial styles that dominate. But it’s always interesting to see just how people play with that idea of ‘sartorial’. People always add their individual flare to the concept. I think that’s the main reason behind why people still go to Pitti.
What are your thoughts on the peacocks of Pitti?
If I’m honest I kind of envy them. They’re enjoying fashion, after all!
Were there any standout brands or clothiers that caught your eye this year?
Oh there were many, but I’m playing my cards close to my chest on that one!
Were there any emerging trends that you were particularly fond of?
I was a big fan of the technical outerwear side of things. If you ask me, I think lifestyle brands, especially outdoor brands, will be very strong for the next few years.
Any you were less fond of?
I enjoy all elements of fashion, so I try to appreciate everything that others put out there in some way or another.
And finally, what was your own approach to dressing for Pitti 95?
I just try to wear what I like and what I believe in. I love Americana vintage clothing, specifically: workwear and classical styles. So I try to incorporate those elements when thinking of what to wear.