Responsible Nostalgia
We chatted to the King & Tuckfield founder about craftsmanship, post-war aesthetics & changing perceptions of denim
To say that Joan Marion King and Graham Aubrey Tuckfield had merely an influence on their granddaughter is to understate how well they dressed. Afterall, the two dressed so timelessly that their granddaughter, Stacey Wood, named her brand after them. Talk about a compliment.
“My Grandmother wore a striped denim wrap dress with clip on earrings and smelt of Chanel perfume.” Wood says, as she recounts memories of her grandparent’s sartorial choices. “My father would always move gracefully in his tailor-made suit or if the weather was hot he would put on his lightweight smart trousers with a short sleeve tailored shirt.”
Despite only being on the market for two years, King & Tuckfield has become a firm favourite in both men’s and womenswear circles. Inspired by her grandparent’s lives and the clothes they dressed up and down in (boilersuits down the mines, the formless uniforms of ballet), but also post-war utilitarian fabrics like denim and merino, K&T creates clean, contemporary clothes with an emphasis on materials and a playful nod to nostalgia.
Said nod to nostalgia from the outset, as Wood points out, was quite the risk.
“The 40s and 50s styles are gradually becoming more relevant, but when we first started King & Tuckfield I think people thought we were mad, going against the fashion trend of 90s and streetwear, but one of the reasons we launched was to celebrate that very era. A time of utilitarian fabrics like merino and denim, that never go out of fashion, age beautifully, look effortless and a time when the wearers of such garments, like my own family, took pride in them, cared for them and frequently passed them down to the next generation.”
It’s not just post-war styles that have rubbed off on King & Tuckfield. At a time when ‘sustainable’ feels like more of a buzzword than a mission statement, speaking to Wood, it’s clear that attitudes from the eras she is inspired by have rubbed off too.
“I hear a lot of brands throwing the word sustainable around as if it’s an on-trend thing to say. As a brand we have invested a lot of money into working in a more sustainable way and will continue to do so, and if everyone starts to do their bit together we can make a huge impact.” She says, before hitting the nail on the head.
“Sustainability starts with consumption. If consumers continue to buy more product for less money, three pieces that last them a few wears instead of one investment piece that lasts a life time, sustainability will continue being another industry buzzword. But if everyone pulls together a real impact can be made.”
When asked about what makes the materials she uses so special, she’s not shy on detail.
“We source from all over the world. Our merino is not simply of the highest quality but coming from New Zealand sheep – known for its longer staple, due in part to both the altitude and vegetation available to herds – it lasts longer. Our Italian selvedge denim is from the biggest denim manufacturer in Europe and one of the most sustainable businesses within denim worldwide. In the process of making our selvedge fabric, it is estimated that a material saving of sixty-two percent is achieved due to their loom technology, with a seventy percent reduction in chemicals during the indigo dye process.”
It was denim that inspired the company’s most recent collaboration. Denim, and a curious case of converting a male model. “I saw an article in GQ, where Richard Biedul made a comment about not wearing denim, so me being me pulled him up on it.” Wood says.
Wood showed Biedul that the be all and end all of denim doesn’t have to be a five pocket jean. Denim can be tailored, it has heritage, it has special characterisitics and the more you wear good denim, the more of a personal identity and story it creates. The conversation sparked collaboration and resulted in an AW18 four-piece capsule collection. Textured polos and a bomber jacket feature alongside an indigo smart jean and a high-waisted indigo pleat trouser.
Speaking about the collaboration, Wood describes the experience of working with Biedul as “symbiotic, effortless and organic”. Quiz Biedul on what he’s learned and his reply is equally positive, “What haven’t I learnt?” Pictures of Biedul wearing the SS19 collaboration capsule on the front rows of LFWM18 also suggest a handsome future of collaboration.
Looking to the future (and backwards) Wood continues to find inspiration in the moodboards of her family’s history whilst sticking to what the brand is best at. “Being only in the market for two years we are still in the early stages, so we are growing organically, carefully and taking our time to ensure we can stay true to our beliefs.” King & Tuckfield, a lesson in not letting bygones be bygones. EJ
Words by Davey Brett
Image Credits by Courtesy of King & Tuckfield
