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A Guide to Smarter Shopping

Fashion will forever be fleeting, but style should always be sustainable 


As the global gaze shifts towards a more all-encompassing approach to sustainability, the ethically-dubious and wholly unsustainable fast fashion industry finds itself with a lot to answer for. That said, here’s our guide to slowing things down and shopping with a little more savvy. It won’t exactly make you Captain Planet, but it’s a good way of putting your money where your mouth is. If nothing else, it will leave you with a cleaner conscience and a more considered collection of sustainable style options. 

Slow it Down
Fast fashion, or disposable fashion, is driven by high-speed, low-cost production methods designed to move things from catwalk to shop rail as quickly as possible. Typically, this approach to fashion results in some pretty negative environmental effects as water pollution, toxic chemicals and textile waste become par for the course. Sadly, it’s our knee jerk reaction to the new and colourful, our growing boredom with older garments, and our ill-planned impulse spending that give fast fashion its foothold in today’s market.

The answer? Slow it down a little. Avoid panic buying at the last minute. And curb the impulse spending. More often than not, those impulse purchases wind up being little more than miss-matched or ill-fitting garments, doomed to gather dust in the deepest, darkest reaches of your wardrobe.

Curate a Capsule Collection
The capsule collection – a perfect antidote to fast fashion – is a fairly simple concept: Buy only what you love and make it last. Invest in quality, be wary of novelty, and ask yourself how an individual piece will fit into your current line up. That way you’re only buying what you know you’re going to wear. To help things along, keep your designs minimal and your fits realistic. Over time, you’ll find that you’ve curated a solid capsule collection of garments that remain in constant rotation. There’s a zen element to this approach too. Less combinations worn more often not only allow for a clutter free living space, but also put an end to the paradox of choice.

Buy Less, Buy Better
Of course, there’s no avoiding the simple fact that investing in ethically-sourced, well-made goods often means splashing out a little more on individual purchases. But the idea is to make these purchases less frequently. Take, for example, the Savile Row suit. Sure, it’s more expensive than highstreet off-the-rail options, but it’s a relatively small price to pay for the only suit you’ll ever need. Investing in a little London-made, bespoke suiting not only supports local industry, it ensures tailor made levels of quality guaranteed to last you a lifetime.

Stay Materially Minded
It’s a pretty inconvenient truth, but polyester blend fabrics are known to shed microfibres during washing cycles that contribute to rising levels of plastic in our oceans. Likewise, the pesticides used in the production of cotton are known to cause serious health issues amongst those working on the harvest. 

Seek out organic options. It’s not just a buzzword thrown about to add a few quid to the price of your smoothie, it’s a reliable indication that materials like cotton haven’t been treated with toxic and potentially carcinogenic substances. That doesn’t guarantee less of an environmental impact (in terms of water waste and aggressive dying techniques), but it’s a small step in the right direction. Brands like the US-based Jungmaven are even championing hemp-based clothing. Not only is hemp naturally resistant to mold, mildew and insects, it also requires no irrigation, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds.

Make do and Mend
Master the ancient art of wearing like hell, cleaning only when needed, and repairing when necessary. Denim and leather are there to be used and abused, with brands like Nudie Jeans Co. going so far as to offer free lifetime repairs on their jeans. Black denim can be easily redyed, for those afraid of the fade or in need of something with a more formal edge. Likewise, Barbour, Belstaff and Private White V.C. all offer repairs and reproofing services (for a nominal fee), making the waxed jacket a key item for year-on-year use. Investing in a solid pair of goodyear welted shoes or boots will ensure easy resoling for decades to come. The list goes on: socks can be re-darned, ill-fitting trousers and jackets can be tailored, cuffs and collars can be mended. Naturally, this comes with a significant time investment on your part, but there’s a lot to be said for a back-to-basics, make do and mend approach to your well-chosen wardrobe.

In the grand scheme of things, the above suggestions offer relatively small steps towards some semblance of sustainability, but they’re steps all the same. Pick your battles and speak with your wallet. EJ


Words by Will HALBERT
Image Credits by Fancy Crave