Celebrating Time-honoured Tradition

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Celebrating Time-honoured Tradition

19th August 2019

As David M Robinson celebrates the launch of its refurbished Manchester showroom, we explore the retailer’s exclusive range, charting the history of the divers’ watch

words by Elliot RAMSEY

Few accessories make a sartorial statement in quite the same fashion as the luxury watch. Simple yet elegant, the classic timepiece has long been considered a marker of taste and the choice of the discerning customer. But while its modern reputation positions it as a must-have for the style-conscious, its history is equally intertwined with narratives of travel and adventures to uncharted territories.

After the introduction of the wristwatch in the 19th century, the divers’ watch soon followed. A feat of innovation which made possible some of history’s most noted underwater explorations, it first entered commercial production during the 20th century, although efforts towards its invention had been made in the 1800s. At a time when hard-hat divers were placing pocket-watches on the inside of their helmets to keep track of their time spent underwater, the creation of the divers’ watch marked a revolutionary step in watchmaking history.

The first of its kind was produced in 1926 by Rolex and was aptly named the Oyster. With its hermetically-sealed case, it provided optimal protection for the watch’s mechanisms and signalled a major industrial shift, setting a new benchmark in methods of production. In 1927, when the English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze crossed the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster, it solidified the brand’s reputation as a pioneering force in contemporary watchmaking, and served as a catalyst for other luxury brands to follow suit in the development and commercial sale of waterproof timepieces.

Now widely produced by a range of Swiss watchmakers, the divers’ watch is the embodiment of style, functionality and design excellence, representing over 100 years of history and heritage. As David M Robinson, the luxury jewellery designer and watch retailer, celebrates the launch of its newly refurbished flagship showroom in Manchester’s St Ann’s Square, we take a tour through their divers’ watch collection, showcasing some of the finest Swiss timepieces and exploring their unique histories. EJ

For more information about David M Robinson’s collection of divers’ watches or to shop their full range of products, visit davidmrobinson.co.uk

Rolex Submariner
Launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner set the standard for divers’ watches, inheriting its state-of-the-art design from its famed predecessor, the Oyster. Waterproof to a depth of 300 metres and fitted with a 60-minute graduated and corrosion-resistant Cerachrom insert which allows divers to monitor their time underwater, the model is the measure of excellence in watchmaking. At 40mm in diameter and featuring both a sapphire crystal and satin finish, the Submariner divers’ watch epitomises the historic link between Rolex and the underwater world.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5
Encased in fine-brushed, polished steel, the Aquaracer is a descendant of the Swiss company’s range of divers’ watches produced during the early 1980s. While TAG Heuer watches were then predominantly associated with motorsports, the Heuer 2000 (as it was then known) signalled a change of direction for the watchmakers and has become an integral facet of their rich history. Now in its fourth iteration, the Aquaracer features a newly-designed, flat finish bezel and larger hour-markers for increased legibility, making it the highest specification model produced in its 37 year history.

OMEGA Seamaster
First produced in 1993, the Seamaster Professional Diver has earned itself a reputation as one of the finest timepieces, in terms of both its function and form. Having relaunched the iconic wristwatch in 2018, OMEGA have elevated the Seamaster’s precision and performance, and unveiled a new range of 14 contemporary models. Having gained a distinguished reputation as the watch of choice for sportspeople and professional divers, and with a larger 42mm diameter and increased magnetic resistance, the Seamaster has proven itself to be one of the finest and most iconic divers’ watches on the market.

Tudor Pelagos
The Tudor Pelagos began its life in 1954 as the Tudor Submariner, owing to its position as the sister company of Rolex – and, over 60 years later, it has developed into a distinctive and sophisticated watch which is as practical as it is fashion-forward. With a contemporary look and feel characterised by its titanium bracelet and ceramic, black bezel, the Pelagos is waterproof to 500 metres and is equipped with a helium escape value, making it a prime choice for serious diving. One of the first models to be fitted with movements developed by Tudor, the Pelagos points
to a move towards greater independence for the brand.

A Guided Tour

David M Robinson’s refurbished flagship store at St Ann’s Square, Manchester