A Farewell to Fashion’s Visionary
Words by Jamie McFadden
The fashion world has been rocked by the announcement that John Galliano, one of the industry’s most revolutionary designers, is leaving his role as creative director of Maison Margiela. Galliano’s tenure at Margiela has been nothing short of transformative, blending the brand’s avant-garde ethos with his unparalleled ability to tell stories through clothing.
As he steps away from this chapter of his career, it is worth reflecting on his indelible impact on fashion, not only at Margiela but across decades of groundbreaking work for some of the finest names in fashion.
Galliano’s time at Maison Margiela, which began in 2014, marked a pivotal moment for the house. Known for its deconstructionist approach, Margiela’s DNA aligned seamlessly with Galliano’s penchant for subversion and theatricality in design. Under his direction, the house’s artisanal collections became a playground for exploring identity, sustainability and craftsmanship. Pieces like his oversized coats made from scraps of vintage garments or his reimagined Tabi boots challenged not only design norms but also the very notion of luxury. His most celebrated moments, such as the “Artisanal” collections, blurred the line between fashion and art, redefining what it means to create clothes in the 21st century.
Before his time at Margiela, Galliano had already established himself as a master of reinvention and a purveyor of fantasy. His tenure at Givenchy and, more notably, Dior, is remembered as one of fashion’s most creative and luxurious eras. Who could forget the iconic Saddle bag’s debut or his couture shows inspired by everything from the Belle Époque to the opulence of Ancient Egypt? Galliano didn’t just design clothes, he created entire worlds, making every runway show a spectacle of emotion and escapism.
His influence extended beyond the garments themselves. Galliano redefined what it meant to be a fashion designer. His theatrical persona, often as compelling as his creations, turned him into one of the first true ‘celebrity designers’. Yet, his career wasn’t without controversy. His 2011 departure from Dior following a scandal seemed to mark a fall from grace. But his return to the fashion world via Margiela proved that talent, when paired with humility and growth, can spark a compelling redemption arc.
Galliano’s departure from Margiela raises questions about what’s next for both the designer and the house he’s leaving behind. Margiela now faces the daunting task of maintaining its relevance without the guiding hand of a visionary. As for Galliano, his departure statement – expressing a desire to explore new avenues of creativity – suggests that his influence on the arts may evolve beyond fashion.
The fashion world will undoubtedly feel his absence, but it will also continue to be shaped by his contributions. From his innovative use of materials to his ability to tell stories through design, Galliano has left a legacy that is impossible to ignore. His work serves as a reminder that fashion is not just about clothing but about emotion, narrative and the art of transformation.
