page_4

The master engraver’s signature style adorns two iconic Dr. Martens silhouettes

Interview by Will Halbert

Dr. Martens iconic boots have long provided the blank canvas upon which the world’s artists, thinkers, and all-round rabble-rousers have chosen to express themselves. The brand has spent the last 60 years giving physical form to history’s most prominent cultural zeitgeists – building a heritage that champions the notion of staying true to yourself and carving your own path.  

Dr. Martens latest collaboration with master engraver, Johnny Dowell (aka King Nerd), sees the brand take that notion literally – bringing the artist’s notoriously intricate and infinitely cool engravings to its iconic 1460 and 1461 silhouettes. Both the 1460 and 1461 are adorned with bolted metal plates that feature one-off designs straight from the creative mind and skilled hand of King Nerd. 

Hot on the heels of co-creations with Needles, Suicoke, and Rick Owens, this is Dr. Martens at the top of their collaborative game. The Dr. Martens x King Nerd Collection offers an amped-up ode to craft and a heavy metal tribute to the spirit of individuality. 

King Nerd: An Interview 

From apprentice to world-renowned master engraver in just under 15 years, King Nerd’s reputation for precision is as legendary as his flair for customisation. We sit down with the man himself to talk through his latest collaboration with Dr. Martens. 

First off, how did you get here? How did you find yourself in the profession you’re in?
I was originally going to St Martin’s for something fashion-related when I came into contact by chance with a gun catalogue for James Purdey and Sons. It was at that moment that I saw the true art of engraving and took the chance at a 5-year apprenticeship. This turned into a further 10 years on top of that working in the luxury world of the Richemont group. 15 years later, I would come full circle and return to my first love, fashion, in the form of this collaboration. 

What do you think it is about the art of customisation that appeals to so many people?
In the world of social media and instant content, the first thing my mind and eyes crave is something I’ve not seen before, something that is unique and individual. Working in and around the luxury world for most of my career, I’ve seen that any bag, luxury watch, item of clothing, or pair of boots that have an element of customisation create that hard-to-get, limited-edition uniqueness. On the flip side, people also like to customise their own things to express themselves and make a product unique to them. Customisation is the beginning of the next great luxury product, in my opinion. 

You probably get asked this a lot, but some of the items you’ve worked on are one of a kind – do you ever get nervous about working on a particular object? 
If I’ve never done a certain product before I still get nervous, yes. But I think that the almost 20 years dedicated to learning my craft helps ease that [laughs]. Some surfaces are more of a challenge than others, though. Titanium is the hardest material I’ve worked on, for example. But different shapes and materials always pose their own, unique challenges. A curved piece of soft gold, as opposed to hard titanium, is an entirely different ball game.

Dr. Martens are champions of subversion, subculture, and self-expression. It must have felt like a perfect fit for your distinct style. How did the collaboration come about?
It was a combination of a lifelong dream and a design idea mixed with the desire to create something that’s never been done before. To do that with a brand I love and have grown up with was a dream come true. It just made sense, too. It was something that Dr. Martens hadn’t done before. Aesthetically we knew it would work even before the finished pieces were created. For me, it was a lot more than aesthetics, though. It was the chance to work with an iconic brand that I had literally grown up with. Dr. Martens have been a part of my life, and the lives of my family and friends, for as long as I can remember. 

Can you talk us through your process a little? From blueprint to the boot, so to speak.
The blueprint was simply a sketch of a pair of Dr. Martens boots. I’ve always drawn shoes, boots, and trainers. I’d draw fashion items and put my colours and designs to them. The idea came from getting metal and a traditional craft like engraving onto products that aren’t normally natural fits. Along with projects I’ve done with car companies, headphone brands, and alcohol brands, Dr. Martens was one of those products you wouldn’t necessarily put with the materials or the craft. But I knew it would work. The designs needed to complement the product and I’ve mixed the traditional, ornate scroll styles with an iconic, skull-like design on the toe to give it a slightly contemporary look. 

How long did the whole thing take? 
The whole project has been close to two years in the making. Mainly because we wanted the engraved metal parts to match my original, hand-engraved master parts. That was quite challenging as the parts weren’t coming out quite as fine and sharp as the originals, but Dr. Martens are as exacting in their standards as I am, so we got there in the end. It was a game of patience and a labour of love, for sure. But it was worth the effort to get this 100% right. 

What does Dr. Martens mean to you, personally? Do you have any memories associated with the brand growing up?
Dr. Martens mean everything to me; they are such a household name, an iconic brand that speaks to all walks of life. Like I say, I’ve grown up around Dr. Martens. It’s surreal to go from having my parents buy me a pair for school to having them wear the boots that I designed. Surreal in the best of ways.  

Did you ever customise your own pair back in the day?
I used to attach pin badges to the boots I had years ago. If the pin wouldn’t stick then I would literally super glue them to the boot! 

How does it feel to be a part of a strong heritage brand like that of Dr. Martens?
It’s taken my love for the brand to another level. Having gotten to know several people at the company – to put names to faces – feels even more special now, more personal. It was a collaboration in the truest sense of the word. Dr. Martens never put me in a corner; they’ve listened to my ideas and input every step of the way; they’ve been super kind and they’ve done everything to make this project come out perfectly. I’m so proud of the product we have created. 

Check out the Dr. Martens x King Nerd Collaboration here.