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From London to Los Angeles, we reach out to those in the know to get their personal insight on the history and heritage of streetwear

Interviews by Will HALBERT

Jojo Elgarice
Owner of Jojo’s General Store, Sheffield, UK 

What does the term streetwear mean to you?
It makes me think of the clothes we wore growing up, skateboarding and hanging out in the streets every night. I’m glad I caught the backend of that era where we had to create our own fun from nothing (pre smartphones, haha). I think streetwear has a lot to do with style too. How it’s put together and worn is important. In my eyes it’s mainly clothing with relaxed silhouettes, quite simple in design and very casual. I suppose it evolved from underground scenes and was originally protesting against the mainstream.

Three brands, past and present, that best encapsulate streetwear
for you?
I don’t think I could choose three specific brands because I think it has a lot to do with how you wear it and where you’re from. I think the brands that best showcase streetwear aren’t actually streetwear brands, but are brands that have been adopted by different subcultures. I watched some great footage of some B-Boys from Manchester in the 1980’s recently, everyone was wearing tracksuits & Adidas shell toes but one guy is wearing a Burberry Nova Check golf jacket with matching bucket hat, for me this really encapsulates streetwear and street style and shows how
someone takes something and makes it their own. In The States, in the early days of streetwear, it was very much surf orientated with brands like Ocean Pacific & Life’s a Beach. Later on in the 90s it became more influenced by Hip Hop with brands like Polo Sport by Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Helly Hansen, Champion, Timberland, Nike, Adidas, Kangol etc.

In the UK, people were wearing different stuff depending what subculture they were part of at the time like Addict, Silas, Holmes, Lacoste, Bape, even outdoors brands like Berghaus & Mountain Equipment were adopted. I think the casuals/dressers culture in the UK was also very prominent, with many Italian Sportswear brands being of prime choice.

It’s undeniable that skateboarding has influenced a lot of streetwear, too. Especially with the global success of brands like Supreme & Palace, but I think many other skate brands also played their part too. Independent, Blind, Shorty’s, Zero, Toy Machine etc., were all hugely popular in the 90s with this culture as well as British brands like Blueprint & Heroin which had loads of iconic designs at the time.

Do you think streetwear has influenced fashion scenes outside of its own?
Yes, most definitely and it seems to keep on growing. Streetwear has influenced huge luxury brands from what they are designing and selling and even who is designing it. The collaborations between brands that people thought were impossible have happened. An obvious example would be Supreme x Louis Vuitton. The crossover between the two is becoming more prominent.

Can you think of any streetwear brands that have moved or grown beyond their original scenes?
I think Stüssy is a great example of that. Shawn Stussy originally started scrawling his signature on surfboards that he’d handmade in the Early 80s. After that he started making clothing and selling it out of the boot of his car with the now-famous branding on. The brand grew and started to really take off and many would argue that surf culture is where streetwear really evolved from. The brand was big in the surf, skate, hip hop and even punk scenes, so it really had a wide audience over many subcultures.

What role, if any, do you see streetwear playing in 2019?
I think it will play a big role yet again, and there will be a continuation of ‘luxury’ brands referencing sportswear & streetwear. It’s crazy to think that brands like Gucci are now making printed logo sweatshirts and hoodies which are inspired by vintage Gucci bootlegs from the 80s and 90s, and selling them for £500 to £900 each. Although very clever and hugely ironic, I still think it’s crackers!

Can you put an age on streetwear? Should you?
Not at all, I think everyone should always dress to their own tastes and style.

Do elements of streetwear influence your own style principles?
Yes there’s definitely a hint, although I love heritage clothing and really old stuff from the 30s and 40s, I also like to mix it up too with gear of all eras for a more contemporary look.

Do elements of streetwear influence what you carry in your own store?
Maybe certain aspects, yes. We stock quite a bit of vintage Stone Island & CP Company which has made a slight crossover into the streetwear world over the past few years. We also stock lots of original military, workwear & sportswear, which is the inspiration and influence behind many modern clothing designs, including those found in streetwear. We try to carry clothing which is timeless and will stand the test of time in durability, functionality and style.

Blair Lucio
Owner of General Quarters, Los Angeles, USA

What does the term streetwear mean to you? 
Well, people love to label things. And there are levels of streetwear. You could view Universal Works or Engineered Garments as streetwear, depending on how it’s worn, but that’s not who they are: They’re more adapted classics with new design. I always think of streetwear in its common usage as something that is heavily labeled, and more of a turnoff in my book, because it usually comes with an expiration date. But again, there’s shades of grey in that too.

Three brands, past and present, that best encapsulate streetwear for you?
I’d have to go with Stüssy, Carhartt WIP and Supreme.

Do you think streetwear has influenced fashion scenes outside of its own?
Absolutely. Streetwear has worked its way into the large fashion design houses, and has touched the heritage realm as well. I can’t say that I like all that it’s done, because it has caused a bit of a fashion victim status for people and oversaturated the market with needless hype. But I definitely believe there are some brands that have staying power, and will be able to evolve.  

Can you think of any streetwear brands that have moved or grown beyond their original scenes?  
Not really. Usually when that happens, it’s because a scene is either saturated or dead, and those who hyped it the hardest are over it and move on to the next hype thing. But if you have style, you have it.  And it can’t always be defined. That’s more what I like seeing.

What role, if any, do you see streetwear playing in 2019?
I think we’ll see more of the same in 2019: A lot of bad design being sold as good design just because a certain brand makes it. And that’s where hype kills the party. It’s a real shame, because if the people buying into certain streetwear labels knew their real backstory, or looked a little further than their own fashion comfort zones, they might be surprised that the ‘designer’ they like, doesn’t actually design the product they hype over.  

But I do believe people are getting wise to the hype train: they’re less likely to stick to just one thing. That includes myself. As more of a heritage man, I see that there’s so much more fun to be had when you add other elements rather than just sticking to one niche, like streetwear and vintage. 

Can you put an age on streetwear? Should you?  
I don’t think you need to. But I will say this: The younger the consumer, the less they care about how products are made, and what their longevity is. They really don’t care as long as they are seen wearing it.

Do elements of streetwear influence your own style principles?  
I love to see everything that’s out there. But for the influence it has on me, my two guys here at General Quarters have shown me that you can really mix it up. Personally, I’m more inspired by the sneakers of the 80s – like Jordan 1s and Adidas – and the outerwear and colors of the 90s, than I am current streetwear. I’m a white-tee-everyday kinda guy, and mostly fatigues or trousers, but I’m having fun pairing classics, icons, and color with my usual look these days. 

Do elements of streetwear influence what you carry in your own store?
Mostly in terms of color more than anything. Some of the graphics for sure. We’re definitely not a streetwear shop, but we get every type of customer through our doors, and we’ve had a lot of really positive feedback on the way were changing it up in here. It’s a breath of fresh air for us as well: To be able to spread our wings a little bit outside of the normal heritage and classic styling for which we’ve been known for so long.

Gary Janes
Design and Development Manager, Barbour South Sheilds, UK

What does the term streetwear mean to you?
Streetwear encapsulates trends found on the street and inspired by subcultures. For me, streetwear offers intrigue through a window to the lifestyle and the belief system of the wearer.

Three brands, past and present, that best encapsulates streetwear for you?
Brands like Stüssy and A Bathing Ape really have dominated the streetwear scene in the past and continue to do so. However, these brands are really pushing the bar of what streetwear evokes in design, branding and lifestyle: HERESY, Ader Error and Wacko Maria. We really love Perks and Mini too!

Do you think streetwear has influenced fashion scenes outside of its own?
Most definitely, streetwear is all over the catwalk these days. Almost every high-end brand is interpreting elements of streetwear in their own lines or diffusion lines.

Can you think of any streetwear brands that have moved or grown beyond their original scenes?
Carhartt WIP is a good example of this. Grown from a work/trade environment where it served a functional purpose, it rebirthed as Carhartt WIP, straight into street culture again.

What role, if any, do you see streetwear playing in 2019?
Streetwear is an integral part of fashion nowadays. I think there will be lots more collabs with music artists, high-end designers and even more engagement with streetwear influencers.

Can you put an age on streetwear? Should you?
There is definitely no age on streetwear! It’s amazing because streetwear can be interpreted so differently depending on the individual. We love seeing people styling HERESY and Carhartt WIP, mixing some old streetwear influences with the new.

Do elements of streetwear influence your own style principles?
Our buyers often go for the streetwear-type pieces within our clothing brand assortment. We love quirky graphics and a bit of randomness in the design. Structured, heavy cotton fabrics never go amiss either!

Do elements of streetwear influence what you carry in your own store?
One of our favourite streetwear brands we stock is HERESY. They’re a lovely brand offering a range of graphic tees, sweatshirts and hoodies as well as heavy weight cotton trousers and jackets all inspired by folklore. It’s quite unique and very cool. They really encapsulate the best of streetwear in our minds.

Bethany Heggarty & Rio Holland
Co-founders of Pam Pam, London, UK

What does the term streetwear mean to you?
Streetwear encapsulates trends found on the street and inspired by subcultures. For me, streetwear offers intrigue through a window to the lifestyle and the belief system of the wearer.

Three brands, past and present, that best encapsulates streetwear
for you?
Brands like Stüssy and A Bathing Ape really have dominated the streetwear scene in the past and continue to do so. However, these brands are really pushing the bar of what streetwear evokes in design, branding and lifestyle: HERESY, Ader Error and Wacko Maria. We really love Perks and Mini too!

Do you think streetwear has influenced fashion scenes outside of
its own?
Most definitely, streetwear is all over the catwalk these days. Almost every high-end brand is interpreting elements of streetwear in their own lines or diffusion lines.

Can you think of any streetwear brands that have moved or grown beyond their original scenes?
Carhartt WIP is a good example of this. Grown from a work/trade environment where it served a functional purpose, it rebirthed as Carhartt WIP, straight into street culture again.

What role, if any, do you see streetwear playing in 2019?
Streetwear is an integral part of fashion nowadays. I think there will be lots more collabs with music artists, high-end designers and even more engagement with streetwear influencers.

Can you put an age on streetwear? Should you?
There is definitely no age on streetwear! It’s amazing because streetwear can be interpreted so differently depending on the individual. We love seeing people styling HERESY and Carhartt WIP, mixing some old streetwear influences with the new.

Do elements of streetwear influence your own style principles?
Our buyers often go for the streetwear-type pieces within our clothing brand assortment. We love quirky graphics and a bit of randomness in the design. Structured, heavy cotton fabrics never go amiss either!

Do elements of streetwear influence what you carry in your
own store?
One of our favourite streetwear brands we stock is HERESY. They’re a lovely brand offering a range of graphic tees, sweatshirts and hoodies as well as heavy weight cotton trousers and jackets all inspired by folklore. It’s quite unique and very cool. They really encapsulate the best of streetwear in our minds.

Ben Neuhaus 
Owner/Proprietor of Snake Oil Provisions, Long Beach, California, USA 

What does the term streetwear mean to you? 
It has and will always mean, get in where you don’t necessarily fit in. Streetwear to me has been the style that was anti-style. Mashing up elements of workwear, surf, skate, music, Americana, rave, and countless other influences and giving ne’er-do-wells and socialoutliers a stylistic voice.

Three brands, past and present, that best encapsulate streetwear for you?
Stüssy, Fuct, FreshJive. To paraphrase Bobby Hundreds, you might as well refer to streetwear as Stüssy. Stüssy invented it. It is still relevant. And no other brand that ever did it, or will ever do it, would/will exist without sitting on Stüssy’s shoulders. I still love the brand, and I still wear the brand. Stüssy paved the way for what I do now, and I’m forever grateful. I didn’t stray from Stüssy very often coming up, but when I did, it was always Fuct or FreshJive. For present brands I really dig WTAPS and Neighborhood. That’s more than three. Oops.

Do you think streetwear has influenced fashion scenes outside of its own? 
The influence streetwear has had on virtually every brand on earth is undeniable, from Levi’s to Gucci to even heritage brands. It’s funny how unaware so many brands are of the undeniable influence streetwear has on their designs. It’s in our unconscious now, and knowing the roots of what we do separates the men from the boys, so to speak.

Can you think of any streetwear brands that have moved or grown beyond their original scenes? 
I can. Streetwear definitely blurs lines between cultures, encompasses so many facets of fashion, and appears in every aspect of pop culture. When there’s a Supreme sticker featured in an Apple commercial, then you know. The most relevant example here is the path 3sixteen has taken. Most customers in our world now know that 3sixteen started as a strictly streetwear brand, solely consisting of graphic tees to, today, consistently designing and manufacturing some of the best jeans, shirting, and outerwear on the market. They pay respect regularly to their etiology, but are widely known and respected by the heritage menswear community as well. I think 3sixteen is the living, breathing embodiment of what it can look like to stay true to your roots but also allow yourself the room to branch out and grow organically.

What role, if any, do you see streetwear playing in 2019? 
The same role it’s always played. Some brands and pieces are constants and have true staying power. Some not so much. Just like anything, I think it comes down to evolve or die.

Can you put an age on streetwear? Should you? 
I think it’s ageless. Just like 501’s and a white t-shirt. You can see a 15 year old kid and his 65 year old grandad both wearing checkerboard slip-ons, Dickies, a graphic tee, and a snapback, and it’s perfectly natural. If you took the same dudes and decked them out in Off White then I’d think it wasn’t so natural.

Do elements of streetwear influence your own style principles? 
I will always love sneakers. I still wear and buy the shit out of them. At the risk of aging myself, I’ve had an obsession with Nike for over 30 years. It’s in my chemical make up. How I styled sneakers definitely transitioned through the years. Today, I wear them with menswear-y stuff like it’s my paying job. The past year, I’ve seen more and more ‘denim dudes’ in Air Jordan 1’s than I can count. I’m not saying I started that trend, but I may have unintentionally started that trend. I’m not mad though. It doesn’t matter to me when (or if) someone gets into streetwear. For some folks, it happens later in life, and that’s okay, too. From a shop/ brand perspective, SOP will always do streetwear-inspired graphic tees and snapbacks. It’s in our roots, and we want to have fun with our in-house projects or why the hell even do them?!

Do elements of streetwear influence what you carry in your own store? 
Welp, as stated above, our SOP stuffs will always be streetwear inspired, and RGT and 3sixteen do a great job of letting their streetwear DNA influence their approach to design. Another example in our brand roster is Earl’s Apparel (aka Stan Ray), which has become something of a cult favorite in the shop. The fatigue slacks have a higher-rise approachable anti-fit with great taper that got quickly picked up by our dudes who skate. Bobby Milwaukee, our shop manager, wears his all the time with 70s Chucks and Vibergs. And we have a lot of women who wear both the fatigue pants and jackets. Actually, there’s been so much demand from women SOP customers that we’re bringing the brand into our women’s shop, Snake Eyes Society, this spring.