Sartorial Selvedge
While the world of denim has always been synonymous with the rough and ready. Blackhorse Lane Ateliers are throwing a little Savile Row-esque sophistication into the mix, and they’re doing so right here, in the UK
words by Will HALBERT
Having opened their workshop doors doors in 2015, Blackhorse Lane Ateliers has quickly become a point of reference for the style-forward and the craft-minded alike. London’s only craft jeans maker, its aesthetic leans heavily on the pre-fast fashion, over-spec’d and structured tailoring of jeans as they were known at the turn of the 19th century. We sit down with the BLA team to talk about the allure of tailoring, the creation of craft camaraderie, and the importance of a more sustainable approach to style. EJ
What’s the story behind Blackhorse Lane Ateliers? How did you come around to making denim goods?
When we started Blackhorse Lane Ateliers 4 years ago, we were dissatisfied with fashion’s impact on the environment. Having 30 years of London-based manufacturing experience, [founder] Han says that it was painful to witness and watch London’s heritage of craft skills and knowledge disappearing. We believed that there was a huge problem with the quality of garments. A resurgence in craft-based beer and bread businesses led us to consider a new approach to the apparent disconnection between the makers and customers of such items, including with a similar democratic thing: jeans.
By and large, do you think we’re seeing a greater interest in all things craft? Are people more interested in the process behind the product?Absolutely. BLA started after witnessing a resurgence in craft making. Nowadays, there’s a greater understanding of ‘slow fashion’ and what that entails, though there is still perhaps a misconception around the fact that everything is made by hand. Crafted means consideration of details and functionality. In many ways, we look to Bauhaus design principles, and by giving customers the chance to see the process first hand in our workshop, they gain a greater appreciation for the craft. Sometimes, it works the other way, where the ‘London Craft Jean Maker’ headline on our shop window draws people in, as they’re interested in the London Craft element and what that means.
One of the most striking things about your jeans is that they’re as clean and beautiful on the inside as they are on the outside. Can you talk us through some of the more tailored flourishes to be found in a pair of BLA denim? Why are they so important to you?
Tailoring principles demand that there should be no messy threads or ‘overlocking’. Construction should, wherever possible, be hidden. This is partly for the image, but also because it generally means that the item will last longer. Our fabrics are the very best quality, chosen not only for how they look, but how they will wear and wash. Without good quality fabrics, then no matter how you make something, the garment won’t have as much life. We look to traditional construction techniques, such as the one-piece fly found one original jeans dating back to 1873. It’s stronger in engineering than a faster-produced, two-piece fly. Our pocket bags are constructed out of heavier twill, too, with a hidden coin pocket to prevent holes developing quickly. The pocket’s raw edges are contained within the jean side seams for added strength at all-important pressure points. Belt loops are sewn into the waistband, rather than on top, which again ensures strength when you’re pulling your jeans up, off, or pushing a belt through. The seams are felled where possible – including the underarms of our jackets and inseams of ourjeans – which not only makes them flatter but stronger. I won’t get too technical, but think Chinese finger trap; felled seams offer that kind of binding strength.
The selvedge ID is the design detail that all denim heads are after, and we keep this beauty even in the jeans pocket and for shirting. All of these details are important for the functionality and durability of clothing, but it also creates a connection with wearers. We put the effort and care into our garments, so the wearers are more likely to look after the garment too.
Where do you source your denim from?
We have close relationships with mills in Turkey (Isko), Japan (Kurabo and Nihon Menpu) and Italy (Candiani and Berto). We choose the denims from these mills for their quality, but also their environmental footprint – the mills are also transparent with their production. Prices reflect the fabric making processes, and the transportation. Turkey, for example, is closer to us, with cotton farms close by to them. So the cost is reduced in comparison to Japanese prices, whose mills source their cotton from Africa.
You guys are also big on your denim repairs. Does that require any special machinery?
We hem our jeans here in-store using a Union Special chain stitch machine. They’re pretty hard to come by nowadays, but the authentic element is important to us. We also use an old-school Singer that reinforces with zig-zag stitching, and we also use standard flat bed machines if we’re patching. But honestly, the beauty of mending lies in the fact that each repair is different; sometimes we even have to ditch the machines and opt for good old fashioned hand work.
There’s more to BLA than your superlative jeans. The factory itself has become quite the community hub. Was that always the goal? Is the concept of community important?
The community aspect was always the goal. In fact, the factory was chosen not only for its large windows and light space, but for the inclusion of the fully-equipped kitchen. The separate studios allow makers to rent the space and be involved in BLA. Community has become – in recent years – more and more important, with the need to engage and converse with each other becoming a bigger priority. Communities provide support, and by having a maker community – not only within our factory but around Blackhorse Lane and the wider Walthamstow area – we are able to make connections with each other.
Any advice for anyone new to the world of raw denim? What pair of BLA denim would you recommend they start with?
Each style has different characteristics. We would only recommend a pair of jeans to suit. That isn’t a cop out, but rather a confidence in our few styles having been designed to suit a wide range of bodies. We’re still working on this, and are gradually releasing new styles of jeans, for men and women, plus jackets, shirts, dresses and knitwear.
If you’re new to raw denim, you would either go for Japanese selvedge denim because you’ve heard that’s the best, or you’d go for a Turkish denim because it’s softer to begin with and so takes less work to wear in. Our advice would be to come to our Coal Drops Yard store and give the jeans a go. Even if you’re not ready to purchase yet, we’d like to show you why you should consider our jeans above all others.
And lastly, do you have any plans to introduce any new fits or fabrics in the near future?
We have very recently released around 10 new styles, with more to come. This has increased our women’s range drastically. We are now able to cater for those not in the market for jeans, or already have our jeans but want to continue generously supporting us. We are a small team, so as we produce garments, we can’t get them online for our international or non-London customers straight away.
However, having the physical items allows us with small product runs to see if we did get it right with the fit and fabric choice. So far, we’re very pleased and our customers are giving great feedback on our efforts.
