Talking Shop: 3sixteen
Andrew Chen & Johan Lam talk us through the opening of 3sixteen’s all-new NYC flagship store
For 17 years and counting, 3sixteen have navigated the intersection between streetwear and heritage wear with a style and ease both enviable and inimitable. Their recent store opening in New York City’s Nolita district not only bucks pandemic trends, but doubles down on the brand’s clear sense of focus and direction. Brand founders Andrew Chen and Johan Lam give us the lowdown on the new Nolita location.
First off, why Nolita and why now? Opening a store amidst a global pandemic can’t be an easy task – what pushed you guys to do it?
Johan: We’ve been looking at spaces off and on for about a year and finally found a space that checked all the boxes towards the end of 2019. We started building out the store at the start of the year in hopes of opening in May, before the shutdown derailed our plans in March.
New York has always been home for 3sixteen and has been an important part of our story and branding. We’ve been operating out of the Lower East Side for over ten years, with two different offices on Orchard and then a showroom on Forsyth. The space on Elizabeth became the perfect opportunity to finally open a retail flagship store where we have planted a flag for so long and in a neighborhood where so many of our friends and like-minded brands also have shops.
This year saw a few cool shifts in 3sixteen’s identity. How does the new NYC store fit into that sense of evolution?
Andrew: That’s right – way back in the beginning of 2020, we launched a new identity that was designed for us by Studio Mast; it feels like an eternity ago, honestly. We had been working with them for almost a year on what was a really difficult but rewarding project. I say difficult because the old logo was easily identifiable and well-loved by many of our customers. Why change something if it’s working, right? But the reason we moved forward was because we wanted our brand identity to “catch up” to our aesthetic – to what we were building as a brand. Hard to describe, but those of you out there who’ve had to go through a rebrand know what I mean.
We were nearing completion of that project when we signed the lease to the storefront, as Johan mentioned. So the new cleaner, more modern feeling graphic system that Studio Mast had put together for us really flowed into the feel of the store. The design intent of the space definitely took into account the work we had put into the new branding.
What’s important to us is that customers walk in and feel at peace. We’re a denim brand first and foremost, for sure – but many jean-focused shops that we’ve been to in the past are an assault on the senses. There’s a purposeful restraint here that allows the clothing to be discovered. You can choose your path and move through the store at your pace, and there are a few details that we thought long and hard about that you might miss on the first visit but catch on a subsequent one. Kind of like our clothing, I guess.
In an industry that seems to be fleeing the physical space in favour of a digital one, why is it so important for you guys to have a brick and mortar presence?
Johan: Physical retail is really important to us as a brand. When we first opened our LA flagship location in the Art District a few years back, people were already clamoring that retail was dead. We feel wholeheartedly that our product is best sold in person, where a customer can feel the fabrics that we’ve made, see the details in the construction of the garments and physically try them on with a knowledgeable sales associate guiding them along the way. We will probably continue to do the bulk of our sales online for the life of the brand, but there’s no tracking how positive interactions in our stores, even ones that don’t lead to sales, can benefit overall sales growth in the long run.
Can you talk me through the new store’s fit out? Any personal favourite flourishes that come to mind?
Andrew: We partnered with longtime collaborator Anton Anger of Studio Meadow to design the space for us. Together with a colleague, he designed our LA storefront and NY showroom – but this was his first solo project under his own studio. We were excited to work with him as he has a strong understanding of our brand’s aesthetic and goals for our retail presence, and he was able to design a storefront that has clear ties to our LA flagship but with distinct features that make it unique for the east coast.
The layout of the selling floor is long and narrow, so we opted to try and build it out almost like an art gallery where the paint, fixtures, and the layout put the focus on the garments. The highlight of the store is a feature arch dead center which draws your eye as soon as you set foot inside; the form was inspired by the Verrazano Bridge. Throughout the space you’ll find a combination of new vs. old, modern vs. vintage, to try and point towards the fact that our clothing is meant to be worn and last for generations. Small arts & crafts tables that used to function as school desks are now pedestals for displaying accessories and floral arrangements, and they are juxtaposed by new fixtures crafted of North Carolina White Oak built for us by Arrowhead in Raleigh, NC. The flooring consists of old-growth Douglas Fir that was rescued from a decommissioned barn in upstate NY. Trilox, a fabrication company based in Brooklyn, focuses on sustainable harvesting and makes use of reclaimed wood to produce beautiful, new treatments that give it new life.
For the vibe, we were aiming for a contemplative, meditative space in downtown NYC. Even the particular block that we are on in Nolita is quieter than the area surrounding us; retail is sparse, and across the street from us is one of the most special places in NYC, the Elizabeth Street Garden. Even pre-COVID, we wanted the space to be quiet, contemplative and a bit of a respite in a bustling city. Post-COVID, we feel that this is now more important than ever. For those who are comfortable visiting us in person, we want the experience to be special.
Obviously, aesthetics like this go beyond simply selling clothes. What kind of experience are you guys looking to cultivate at the NYC store?
Andrew: We’ve told our retail team that unlike most other similar positions, we are not judging their work solely upon the performance of the retail store itself. Of course we have rent to pay and bills to cover, but the purpose of the store is first and foremost to provide a positive experience to those who make the time to visit us, whether they buy something or not. So many memorable retail experiences for Johan and me come when we travel; the ones where staff take the time to get to know us, point us towards the best espresso in the neighborhood, or talk to us about what’s playing on the shop speakers. The connection over the clothes are often a jumping off point to lead to shared interests. There’s also something really special about customers who are able to interact with each other in our retail space, although that may be limited for the time being. A special energy and interaction arises when customers who are into the same brand are able to meet each other, talk to each other about the product, or then begin to make recommendations to each other on a good place to eat in the area. We wanted this to be a meeting space, a place to share interests, ideas and experiences. We are looking forward to a time when this can be done safely.
Johan: We always try to think about international visitors and out-of-towners when we build out our stores. We want the spaces to be a haven for weary travelers who go out of their way during their vacations or business trips to come and visit us. During our travels, we’ve always found that visiting a store that you’re into will set you up for the rest of your trip. Shop staff are oftentimes the most tied-in people in any city, so you’ll get the best recommendations for restaurants, sights and exhibits to check out from people that you know you share common interests with. We’ve created neighborhood guides with a map of everything cool within walking distance for visitors to take with them and offer little things like guest wifi, which is always important when traveling abroad.
And lastly: where do I go from here? Where else should I hit up while I’m in the neighbourhood?
Andrew: Ok. I’d send you to Cafe Integral for a coffee or espresso; they specialize exclusively in beans from Nicaragua, and their roasts are solid. If you’re visiting NYC, you cannot go without a bagel, so grab one from Black Seed a block away from us. COVID took one of the best Thai restaurants in the city from us (Uncle Boon’s) but the owners managed to open a casual spot called Thai Diner just around the corner from the shop that is super solid. Nom Wah, the oldest dim sum restaurant in Chinatown, has a fast-casual branch in Nolita that I send friends to often. If the line isn’t too crazy, a “Spicy Spring” slice at Prince Street Pizza is a must; bring it with you to the Elizabeth Street Garden and eat it on a bench in the midst of beautiful stone sculptures. Our neighborhood has excellent wine shops; my favorites are Wine Therapy and Peoples,
