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Waistcoat Wisdom

Still not sure you can pull off a gilet? Universal Works are here to change your mind.

words by Will Halbert

Anyone who claims to be immune to the warming allure of the humble gilet has clearly never put one on. There’s nothing quite like it – wearing a gilet is like getting a warm hug, a hug that still lets you wave your arms about a bit, should you wish. Not the most rugged terms in which to wax lyrical about a garment forged in the fires of industry and good, old fashioned graft, but I’ve said it now so I’m sticking to it.

Anyway, the folks at Universal Works seem to share my passion for the gilet. In fact, they have as many different gilets in their collection as there are, well, names for gilets. ‘Vest, gilet, waistcoat, whatever you like to call them, they remain an ever-popular layering item which has always featured in our collections,’ says Universal Works founder, David Keyte. ‘The names mean much the same. The waistcoat, or the “vest” as Americans call it, is just a gilet in France. That’s about the size of it.’

Universal Work’s latest season sees the addition of three new entries into their sleeveless category: The Franck Gilet in Italian water-resistant nylon, the Carlton gilet in multi-brushed patchwork, and the Zip Waistcoat in orange austin wool fleece. Each offers a little something different, with key twists in their DNA that sees them tread the threshold between classic workwear and casual, street-inflected outerwear.

‘Here in the UK today, we simply think of the gilet as an outerwear garment,’ says David. ‘But there’s a few other historical markers in the mix too. Our Zip Waistcoat, for example, takes cues from old French leather gilets worn by workers. They gave protection when at work, protection from the cold, and had the added bonus of those useful pockets for tools and such. There’s a working element to it.’

History, application, and nomenclature aside, gilets also happen to be perfect for that most-hallowed of global winter sports: layering. They provide that all-important core warmth without the risk of stuffing your sleeves to the point where you can no longer scratch your nose, answer your phone, or put your arms down by your sides. So, the next time you’re given the chance to experience for yourself the comfort and luxury of the gilet, do so not with cynical trepidation, but with genuine enthusiasm. Give in to the radiant warmth and full range of motion that only the gilet (waistcoat, or vest) can provide. Go get yourself that hug, you’ve earned it.

Check out the full range of Universal Works gilets, waistcoats and vests over at universalworks.co.uk